French jewellery brand Fred celebrates birthplace of its founder through the Monsieur Fred Ideal Light collection
- Aireena Azni
- 1 day ago
- 7 min read
The maison's latest release took inspiration from the warm waters, bright lights and verdant landscapes of Buenos Aires, Argentina, where Fred Samuel spent his childhood.
Jin of BTS sported a Bright Vitality necklace and ring at Maison Fred's recent gala in Seoul (All photos: Fred)
Argentina was once a relatively affluent and developed nation, thriving in the early 20th century as a result of an era of free trade and economic liberalism. It became one of the world’s leading exporters of corn, flax and meat.
Fred Samuel, the visionary behind Fred Jewelry was born in Buenos Aires during this flourishing period in 1908 to gem dealers Albert Samuel and Leonora Beckhardt, who had a jewellery boutique in popular shopping area Calle Florida. In his memoir published in 2022, the late celebrated jeweller recalled taking his first steps in the store located in an upscale neighbourhood, which he described as “the equivalent of Paris’ Rue de la Paix”.
The younger of two siblings, he enjoyed an idyllic childhood and attended an esteemed school where students marched into their classrooms to the strains of the national anthem, and spent their afternoons practising sports. In the summers, his family would escape to Mar del Plata, a coastal paradise with sweeping beaches, ideal for the young boy to hone his rowing skills.
At the beginning of the 1920s, however, his parents decided to return to their homeland in France. The Argentine sunshine and stunning sea were replaced by the chill of the new climate and lacklustre setting, marking a radical shift for 12-year-old Fred. As such, he would relive his golden days in Buenos Aires by indulging in the flamboyant world of precious stones. When not in school, he would spend time observing his father examine diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, or watch his mother absorb the beauty of jewels.
Despite having a business diploma from École Supérieure de Commerce, he had his heart in jewellery.
Fred started his professional journey in the industry as an apprentice at one of the top merchants of gemstones and fine pearls in Paris. His first task was to sort pearls by size and colour — a meticulous and repetitive job, but one essential to the trade. Over time, he was trusted with a more significant responsibility, which was to organise melee diamonds.
Driven and enthusiastic, Fred felt strongly about having creative freedom to design his own pieces of jewellery, which led him to set up his eponymous company in 1936. At 28, he opened a boutique at 6 Rue Royale in Paris in a historic building erected during the reign of Louis XVI. It was the perfect location to introduce his brand to a range of wealthy and influential individuals, as the shop was strategically located across the legendary Maxim’s, which was always frequented by members of the beau monde, royalty and billionaires from around the world.
Fred had unique and innovative ideas for jewellery — he made objets d’art for women, whose identity changed radically during the Roaring Twenties. Among his earliest accessories were bangles and bracelets made from gold, semi-precious stones and diamonds. Adorned with enamelled charms of Parisian iconic monuments such as the Eiffel Tower, they became hot sellers among tourists and aesthetes alike.
Despite the house’s growing popularity in Europe, Fred held on to his childhood memories in Buenos Aires. His deep admiration for Argentina’s brilliant sunlight and the country’s joie de vivre was consistently reflected in his fresh and dynamic designs. Almost 90 years later, Maison Fred’s creative team, led by his granddaughter Valérie Samuel, continues to honour his luminous legacy with radiant and refreshing pieces that draw from his life and love of all things bright and beautiful.
Valérie Samuel, vice president and artistic director of Fred
Guiding Light
Following the release of the Monsieur Fred Inner Light high jewellery collection, which looked into the founder’s unique personality, the brand introduced the Monsieur Fred Ideal Light in June last year to celebrate Fred’s vision of “ideal light”. As he once said, “I ducked my head below the surface, the sun filtered through the water and, suddenly, the light created a mirage of a distant country, a street corner, hawkers on a huge beach. My ideal light.”
Centred on the subject of sight and scene, the collection that embraces the diverse landscapes and culture of Argentina traces the spots Fred had visited when he was young. It calls for admirers to walk through and get acquainted with the captivating paths and places that inspired the founder’s creative mind.
“More than a travel diary, this collection is an invitation to escape. It celebrates my grandfather’s creative energy, born out of the light and vibrant colours that marked his childhood in Argentina and that have always made me dream,” said Valérie, vice-president and artistic director of Fred.
The launch was first unveiled to the media, clients and a star-studded guest list in Shanghai last October. Moving from one mega city to another, the maison brought the jewels to Seoul in a grand yet intimate gala night at Josun Palace in Gangnam mid-March. The hotel was thoughtfully chosen as the venue for the presentation — its grandiose structure is a reflection of the house’s stylish and opulent DNA and its floor-to-ceiling windows in all communal areas and rooms bring ample natural light in while offering a sweeping view of the city’s skyscrapers. Perhaps it is this unwavering radiance that drew the maison, also known as The Sunshine Jeweler, to hold its prestigious party there.
Designed by architectural duo Emil Humbert and Christophe Poyet, the establishment was developed by a highly regarded corporation in South Korea called Josun Hotels & Resorts, owned by conglomerate Shinsegae Group, which built the country’s oldest Western-style hotel in 1914.
Besides selected members of the media from South Korea, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, Australia and Hong Kong, as well as key clients, the gala dinner held in the ballroom on the third floor was graced by Fred’s first global brand ambassador, Jin of supergroup BTS, who styled a Bright Vitality necklace and ring with a shimmering suit from American label Amiri. Actress-singer Lee Sungkyung, actor Cha Seungwon, actress Kim Hyesoo as well as athletes Oh Sanguk and Park Se-ri were also in attendance.
From left: Kim Hyesoo, Cha Seungwon and Lee Sungkyung
In his welcome speech, newly appointed Fred CEO Vincent Reynes said: “Through Monsieur Fred Ideal Light, we celebrate a man, Mr Fred. And if jewellery is about one thing, it is about men and women. It is about stories, it is about narrative, it is about beauty and creativity. Mr Fred founded the maison almost 90 years ago, can you believe that? That is 90 years of creativity, innovation and audacity; of amazing jewellery and stories. Every piece of jewellery he created and those you see today are inspired by his life and beliefs, and his love of life. Every day I go into the office, I know Mr Fred is looking after us and he is showing the way.”
Immediately after, an ensemble of waiters marched out in sync, each carrying a plate of hors d’oeuvres comprising sea chestnut, three types of mushrooms and caviar with halibut. Like the table decorations, which featured a gradient of yellow, orange, blue and green taper candles, alongside vibrant centrepieces, the four-course dinner by Michelin-starred chef Son Jongwon of Eatanic Garden and L’Amant Secret was curated with colourful ingredients to capture the high-spirited essence of the release.
While ballet dancer and art director Kim Joowon gracefully spun and whirled to the powerful yet soothing sound produced by bandoneonist and composer Koh Sangji on stage, models draped in exquisite Monsieur Fred Ideal Light finery strutted down the runway in pairs. The precious ornaments became the stars that shone in the space with every twist and turn, their details standing out against white-and-pastel garments.
The Monsieur Fred Ideal Light was presented in Josun Palace hotel, Seoul
Down Memory Lane
Time and again, Reynes and Valérie reiterated their drive behind each creation — the founder. For the Monsieur Fred Ideal Light high jewellery collection, they revisited Fred’s birthplace to discover the special spots he used to cherish.
“The starting point of a design is always an idea — a story, something you want to convey. When we look at the archive, the questions I ask are: What could be a way of expressing it? How can [a story] be transformed into a piece of jewellery?” Valérie explained as she guided us through the collection.
Divided into four chapters, it comprises Exalting Joy, Bright Vitality, Blazing Audacity and Endless Horizon.
Exalting Joy three-in-one ring
Exuding the cheerful energy of Montserrat in Argentina, Exalting Joy has patterns that echo the bright costumes from parades in the district. This set particularly challenged the house’s artistry to take things to the next level. “When I told our artisans at the workshop I wanted to make embroidered high jewellery, they looked at me and said, ‘What are you talking about? We cannot imagine your vision’,” Valérie said. Embroidery of turquoise hues, embellished with opals and tourmalines capture the joyful spirit of the city’s annual Carnival, a festival that includes calypso music, dancing, pageantry, masquerades and road processions. A unique new gemstone called Opalazur, a combination of white opal and turquoise, was specially crafted for this range.
Bright Vitality ribbon necklace
Looking at nature, Bright Vitality draws from Palermo’s lush botanical garden in Buenos Aires, the place to go for a relaxing stroll amid abundant plant species. Each piece is designed with leaflets featuring a duo of brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, complete with emeralds sourced from the renowned Muzo mine in Colombia. Their timeless and fluid design evokes the graceful sway of palm leaves and the use of diamonds recalls the scene of sunlight filtering through the trees.
Blazing Audacity Toi et Moi ring
Inspired by the light and warm fantasy of La Boca, Blazing Audacity is an explosion of colours. “Tango was born here. The streets are very colourful and the architecture is powerful,” she shared. The striking palette of the picturesque neighbourhood is translated into five jewels, each a harmonious blend of organic and geometric shapes. Mandarin garnets, red spinels and pink rubellites are incorporated to express the lively energy of La Boca.
Endless Horizon long lasso necklace
It would be remiss to omit Mar del Plata from Fred’s Argentine travel guide, as the coastal city held deep significance for the founder during his childhood. A skilled swimmer and a watersport athlete, Fred found solace in the sun and sea, his love for the latter so strong that he wished he was “born a fish”. In Endless Horizon, the set recounts his joy from summer vacations at Mar del Plata, where he dreamt of endless adventure and absolute freedom. A striking piece from this set is a long lasso necklace reimagined from a sailor’s coil. It has a braided white gold rope on one side and an articulated combination of lapis lazuli and white diamonds on the other. Held together by a ring, the cables can be split into two necklaces, offering a variety of styling options.
“A lot of our creations are transformable. We want our pieces to accompany you every day. So, it is important for the maison to make high jewellery that is versatile and meaningful,” Valérie said.
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